Fri 4 May 2007
postcard…not quite from the edge
Posted by bon under stuff stuff, stuff to be done
[15] Comments
you know how in a very short time so much life can pass that you feel like it’s impossible to begin to catch up?
i feel like that.
the first time i went to Prague, it was in a handbasket. a wild, debaucherous, wonder-struck, stars-in-my-eyes, no-holds-barred and emotionally wringing kind of handbasket that in effect marked the end of my first (and formally, only) marriage and the utter fulfillment of the travel fantasies i’d had since i was an adolescent. Prague was a frilly birthday cake of seedy, smoky magic to me, and every place since has struggled to compare.
this trip to Mitteleurope was moderately more sedate…but still pretty surreal. it is the Twilight Zone of cities, Praha. Dave and i used to live in its ugly stepsister, Bratislava, but while the Soviet housing suburbs of the two are generally the same vast horrors of concrete bleakness, and the old town squares of each are monuments to Hapsburg frivolity and empire building, Prague – for me, at least – is infused with a unique energy that seems to inspire me to both my best and my worst all at the same time. it’s a heady place.
but it is no longer one i want to live in.
and a part of me is mourning the loss of that lust for baroque vistas and seedy underbelly. because it is gorgeous – indubitably, breathtakingly so. and it is a site ideally suited to the latenight cigarette-infused intensity and abandon and giddy conversation that i still rise to like a swimmer coming up for air, as if i’d never been out of the medium. i love it for that. and i loved that Dave and Oscar and i got to take in the former, and that Dave and i were freed by our generous babysitting friends for the rare freedom and focus of the latter. those things alone, plus getting to connect and catch up with those fine friends in what is now the third country we’ve all shared too many drinks in, was worth the trip. truly.
but the whole time i was just slightly off-balance, uneasy. around every corner, i found ghosts of myself, of former lives, all intersecting. i do not want to be an expat anymore, not one struggling to make enough to leave the (albeit beautiful) city i live in, not one continually bracing myself for a way to comprehend the seemingly Kafka-esque whims of local bureaucracy and red tape, not one looking for community in bars. i know there are other experiences available in the expatriate pallette, but these were my own…at their best. and i am over that. and i am a little sad to realize that so viscerally…because it means that a part of my heart can never truly go home again, to the magical land of faraway.
the journey back from Prague to London involved a race to the local children’s emergency room with Oscar, who’d come down with bronchiolitis all over again, poor wee, then a hustle back to drag our baggage and cartage and kitchen sink down the four flights of stairs from our friends’ flat to the cab, since we were not braving three changes on public transport laden down with luggage and a sick baby, then a screaming match between yours truly and a skanky cheap-Barbie-knockoff Czech Easyjet agent who – despite our problem-free trip from London to Prague with exactly the same luggage, and a confirmation phone call i’d made to the company itself before we ever left Canada to assure myself that i was interpreting their baggage allowances appropriately – charged us an extra $125 US just to depart her fine but still graft-notorious country with the same bags we’d come in with, may she burn in fake tan hell, the smug slag and her entire airline. that was a pleasant day.
London has been rejuvenating, however. Oscar is recovering. he has been, for the most part, an amazing little travel companion, adaptable and curious and pleasant, despite his wretched cold. he scared us badly, the morning of the emergency room run…but only forty-eight hours later, he is rested and pink-cheeked and happy, if a little snot-ridden. i love having him here, showing him things, seeing how he responds to sights and smells and people and the crush of public transit, watching his little feed trod over flagstones that are hundreds of years old. and in moments, i desperately wish Dave & i could have a swank dinner without little hands flailing to taste everything right now. such is parenthood, i guess. i would not trade. we are staying with another of the old friends we are lucky enough to have scattered all over the world right now, and her flat is tres cool and comfortable for getting our feet back under us. yesterday, O got his diaper changed at the London Eye, and at the Tate Modern. i’m sure he’ll treasure the photographic evidence of these adventures when he’s older. ;)
wherever you go, there you are, they say…and i am discovering myself again each new place we go.
wish you were here.




May 4th, 2007 at 11:42 am
I’m glad that have had safe travels, if a bit more challenging than preferred. Hope Oscar keeps feeling well!
May 4th, 2007 at 12:30 pm
Still laughing at your depiction of the scene with the “skanky cheap-Barbie-knockoff Czech Easyjet agent.”
Glad O. is OK and that you’re enjoying your trip, ghosts notwithstanding.
And nice to hear from you, lady!
May 4th, 2007 at 12:50 pm
We look forward to hearing more on your return…
May 4th, 2007 at 4:12 pm
I just love your writing … and I love hearing about your travels! Makes me want to book a trip now!!!
May 4th, 2007 at 5:13 pm
What a wonderful trip, for so many reasons. Isn’t it freakish when you see yourself, then and now?
And I am so jealous. The Tate Modern. Blow London a kiss for me. She haunts me in my dreams at night.
May 4th, 2007 at 6:33 pm
oh…bon. i so love seedy underbellies. it makes me wish we knew each other back then, overturning a few rocks together.
glad O is ok.
May 5th, 2007 at 12:52 am
“Skanky cheap Barbie…” Oh man! Too good.
Keep up the happy travels!!!!
May 5th, 2007 at 2:30 am
What an evocative post! It’s funny how we can miss things … well, funnier how we can miss wanting things we no longer desire. If you don’t want it, how can you miss it? Ah, you can miss wanting it. It’s part of you, and without the desire, you become different.
May 5th, 2007 at 12:22 pm
Prague! I’ve never been anywhere. But Prague reminds me of an ex-boyfriend who wore this Prague t-shirt ALL THE TIME.
May 6th, 2007 at 1:38 am
I am glad your trip is going so well- you lucky, lucky girl. Poor little Oscar, though. I bet you were scared shitless when you had to take him to the hospital.
May 6th, 2007 at 1:54 am
i know just how you feel… i think.. for me, realising that i no longer dreamed the same dreams, or cherished the same ideal of life that i had for as long as i can remember, was tough. like i didn’t quite know who i was or where i fit in anymore. like i’d built myself around a life around a person that i thought i wanted to be… but when i didn’t want to be her anymore i was a little confused. it was quite a process of letting go of the “cath” i knew and loved, and settling into the “new skin”… i’m still not sure that i’ve done it completely. because sometimes i still dream those same dreams, and it’s only when i think about living them that i realise i don’t in fact want them anymore… transition is a funny place for me – which is strange in itself as it was transition that defined my life for so long. but though it’s been somewhat difficult and confusing, it’s still better to have lived the dream and not want it anymore than the alternative, which i believe would be to not have lived it at all and still be wondering…
i hope o is feeling better, and i hope you enjoy your friends and the rest of your trip.
much love
May 7th, 2007 at 4:03 am
Wow! I admire people like you who dare to travel the world with baby in tow. Before I had children I thought I could continue my slightly “jet set” lifestyle, but after my firstborn, reality set in. I realized that I would simply rather stay home than deal with long-distance travel with a baby.
I lived in France for three years and have never taken my children there because there has always been one child that is too young to meet my mental “height requirement.”
My hat is off to you all! Have a wonderful trip! Sorry about the Easy Jet babe. She was probably having a really bad day and took it out on poor you. Enjoy the rest of your trip though, and take lots of photos!
May 7th, 2007 at 5:50 am
You know you’re a parent when “a little snot-ridden” is a blessed state.
Prague is amazing; I visited it 22 years ago and have longed to return since then.
May 7th, 2007 at 6:46 pm
I can very easily feel removed from my real life when I travel. Even a day trip requires an equal amount of time to re-enter the atmosphere of my daily routine. We want to hear more about your travels…and PICTURES, too.
May 8th, 2007 at 4:22 pm
Seedy underbellies are the best. As are skanky-Barbie types.
Wish I was there.