Fri 4 Jan 2008
by northwest
Posted by bon under stuff stuff
i used to live in the Arctic…north of the tree line, north of the Arctic Circle, on an island in the storied Northwest Passage.
if you look at a map and find Winnipeg, and then keep a finger tracing north until you hit the archipelago of ice and islands way near the top of the world, you will find the little Inuit settlement - a hamlet, formally, which caused my English-teacher self no end of amusement - which was the site of my first real, full-time teaching job, my own class, day in, day out.
i stayed only for two years, which in the Arctic marks me as one of those thousands of expendable white folk who come in and out of the landscape like the caribou, seasonal and interchangeable, running past in search of adventure or escape or just steady work, but not one who stayed long enough to be a colourful character the way so many of the longtimers are, memorialized in legend, at least by their own kind. i don’t know even if my students would know me now, more than ten years after i left…i don’t know if my name would ring bells for them, or if they know that they cross my mind, that i wonder about them, their kids, that i remember names and faces, that i still wish i’d done a few things differently. i was young.
and they, in some ways, were not. i taught high school, grades ten and eleven, English and social studies and computers and gym - laugh on, oh gods - and was the regular ‘chaperone’ for the youth drop-in centre and tried to run a drama club. i was twenty-three when i got there, and most of my class were only a few years younger, with a few who stripped me in years. Lucy was twenty-nine. almost all of them were parents, even the youngest ones, fifteen and sixteen, ripe with bellies i spent the first months trying to pretend weren’t there because i had no frame of reference for a people among whom teen pregnancy was just a fact of life, no frame of reference for a people for whom school was only a thirty-year-old intrusion - a colonial intrusion in which they saw little reflection of themselves, no matter how progressive I or the system tried to be - rather than a reason for being. i spent the first year angry, i think, half at them, half at me, deep in the grips of a culture shock more gutting and destabilizing than anything i experienced in Korea or anywhere i’ve globetrotted to since. in the second year, the anger faded and was replaced by something far more complex, but i realized - with some shame - that once my student loan was carefully repaid i had no interest in spending the rest of my twenties in a town that had only a hockey arena and two small grocery stores as public venues, even if that made me just another itinerant carpetbagger from the south. and so i bolted back homeward, back to the Atlantic coast i’d yearned for with its bars and fiddles and some small chance of occasional anonymity and belonging.
but it was stark, there, and beautiful, and just so fucking big…like the sky had stretched out because it was the top of the world. when the midnight sun faded into the slanting days of autumn and the early snows, the land shone, golden, for miles unending. i have never since seen light like that. photographers eat each other for light like that. and then, it goes. and for months, there are only stars. the town sits so far over the curve of the earth that even the northern lights were dim in the frozen sky, those winters, the town a little white curve of electric light nestled around a natural harbour, everything else inky blue-black out to infinity.
the first winter, when the dark came at Hallowe’en and the last threads of noonish dusk faded from the sky by the first week in December, i trudged confused and busy through my days in the unrelenting blackness, only to waken late every Saturday morning and cry myself back to sleep. i felt like Alice, toppled down the rabbit hole, on all fronts.
but the second winter was remarkably easy, when the dark came on. i was easier in my skin by then, and happier, and i hibernated without rancour and got engaged that Christmas to the one i’d dragged up to that godforsaken outpost of civilization, the one who nested in the dark with me and kept me warm and semi-civilized myself. in a place where they only cancel school at -65 degrees, warm matters. and civilized…i thought that mattered a lot. we left, eventually, because we thought it mattered so much.
but i remember the day i glimpsed it, that thing that the north has that makes people crazy and wild, that gets under their skin and makes them unable to ever be contented anywhere else on the planet. it was early January, and we were back at school, and it was an ordinary morning, maybe working on To Kill a Mockingbird or Midsummer Night’s Dream or one of the other ambitious things i tried to re-cast in light of Inuit culture that year, and only half-failed. and somebody was at a window, gazing out into the blackness, probably wondering when lunch would come, and then the hint of it crawled up over the heretofore invisible horizon and suddenly…there was light. a sliver, but light.
and my entire class crowded to the row of windows, me included, all of us pressing against the cold glass like paparazzi, our mouths open but silent, watching the oldest thing in the world: the sun, flirting with us, announcing. it was one of the most beautiful things i have ever been part of, that minute or two, before we all went back about our business. nothing much was said - not much was ever said up there, in the way of commenting upon the obvious. and yet, with our gaze we bore witness together, me and those kids, those un-kids, enacting a ritual that i suddenly understood was as old as their culture and yet utterly spontaneous, unpredicted, unavoidable. drawn like moths to flame, we were for that one moment in my teaching career all truly captivated, mesmerized by the turning of the earth, by the promise of light.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
i noticed, today, in spite of the four foot (and still coming down!) snowfall, that the days are beginning to grow longer, to inch their way back to the light. and i remembered.
36 Responses to “ by northwest ”
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January 5th, 2008 at 8:18 am[...] What a beautiful memory. [...]













January 4th, 2008 at 4:19 am
Bon! This stole the breath right from me
January 4th, 2008 at 6:05 am
When late December rolls around and the sun starts to set at 1 PM, I get decidedly cranky. I can’t imagine living any further north.
-Al’Ma
PS - do you have an Amauti for O?
January 4th, 2008 at 11:44 am
Beautiful post.
I think I would seriously struggle with that much darkness for so long. My MIL hails from Oslo, originally, and I can’t even imagine going with so little daylight winter after winter, and they at least get a few hours a day!
My dad was stationed in Greenland for a year… he actually enjoyed it, often venturing out on long walks by himself.
January 4th, 2008 at 1:42 pm
How amazing. This was incredible to read. I particularly like how you described your process of moving from anger (and how you described that anger…as a sort of obstacle and stepping stone to understanding) to something more complicated.
And what a visual of the sun.
January 4th, 2008 at 1:42 pm
This was a beautiful post.
That town sounds a lot like my town. Except we have one grocery store.
January 4th, 2008 at 1:51 pm
That was a beautiful post.
January 4th, 2008 at 1:55 pm
How beautiful!
I couldn’t imagine living in a place like that - it just seems so…foreign. Foreign but breathtaking.
And I have also noticed, that while the cold is bitter here (although getting better) the days are starting to get a bit longer…which I am so grateful for.
January 4th, 2008 at 2:11 pm
Here via Julie Pippert’s shared items.
That was an awesome post reflecting life in the real great white north. It’s great to give perspective to someone (yours truly) who lives north of the GTA and feels like he’s isolated.
Well done.
January 4th, 2008 at 3:54 pm
Stunning.
I thought I noticed it, too.
January 4th, 2008 at 4:04 pm
I often wish despite the culture shock and the carpetbagging aspects that I had done something like this when I was younger… everyone I’ve known who has lived in the North has been changed forever by it.
Despite the fact that the heat in my office doesn’t seem to be working today and my fingernails are actually blue with cold, I could feel my spirits lift as I read about the return of the light.
January 4th, 2008 at 4:21 pm
Lovely.
January 4th, 2008 at 4:34 pm
Sounds like a beautiful place to visit although I don’t think I have the fortitude to survive even one winter there. I am a Southern girl and the idea of dark days and -65 weather is beyond my comprehension.
January 4th, 2008 at 4:34 pm
Oh, beautiful, Bon. Just beautiful.
January 4th, 2008 at 5:25 pm
So lovely, this.
January 4th, 2008 at 5:27 pm
Really beautiful writing, Bon!
January 4th, 2008 at 5:41 pm
a stunning post — beautifully written.
January 4th, 2008 at 6:35 pm
Holy frijole! You are an amazing writer.
Thanks for sharing the memory.
January 4th, 2008 at 6:46 pm
Bon: Can we be friends? I mean, really. Can we meet one day and share stories in person and talk on the phone? Because you have to be the most real, neatest, coolest chick I’ve encountered via this vast Internet world in a long time.
This story is amazing. It reaches out to me on so many levels. I never travelled, though my heart so wished to after I graduated college. My cultural archeologist side thought South America was to be my dream. It never happened. In recent years, I’ve grown enamored with our northern cultures, and I long to visit Alaska and eventually drive that road the Ice Road Truckers do (ever see that show on Discovery? It has to take place somewhere along the longitude you once lived).
Instead, I taught English to a hard-nosed demographic of kids on the periphery of life with nowhere-to-be-found parents and an administration that generally sucked. Your experience sounds so much more fulfilling than mine.
I love that you wrote this, love that you shared with sliver of yourself, and how you came upon this memory from such a simple thing in your day today: light. Man, you are a gifted one. Thank you -
January 4th, 2008 at 7:19 pm
Oh, Bon, this was gorgeous.
I have been dreaming of the north for some time now…maybe not as far north as you were, but my own little slice of it. And I think I’ve realised that I could never do it the justice it deserves. Having said that, I have to hold back the urge to sip from that cup for experience’s sake, just because I know that I can’t commit…and I’m still waffling.
Cryptic, maybe, but someday maybe we can talk about it. Thank you for this.
January 4th, 2008 at 8:23 pm
wow, Bon, you have some amazing stories to tell.
January 4th, 2008 at 10:16 pm
how incredibly beautiful you have splayed the beauty of this ancient calling to our souls of the light, the light that rises upwards like hope …
January 5th, 2008 at 1:28 am
bon, this is a beautiful description of one of life’s wonders.
I have worked with teens in difficult life situations so I can imagine how powerful it was to share this experience with them.
I could never have worked in such an isolated place. I lasted one year in Windsor Ontario! You are tougher than me.
January 5th, 2008 at 7:01 am
great story
January 5th, 2008 at 2:18 pm
oh how i love your wrting…
January 5th, 2008 at 2:19 pm
um…that would be “writing”
January 5th, 2008 at 3:20 pm
that was lovely.
January 5th, 2008 at 6:42 pm
I miss the winters I would spend up there with my cousin.
But I do not miss the cold. Brrr.
Wonderful writing. Happy new year, Bon.
January 5th, 2008 at 6:55 pm
“The promise of light”
Beautiful.
Amazing how often that promise has saved my soul.
January 6th, 2008 at 1:41 am
Wow. You have had so many amazing experiences, Bon. I can’t even imagine living in darkness.
As you know, I have been spending a lot of time inside of my house with the kids. I went outside today, and was amazed by how awesome it felt to be in natural light.
January 6th, 2008 at 4:56 am
I have relatives who live in the far north, and they tell me so many amazing stories like this, alternating with stories of despair. I wonder how they make it.
BTW, I posted a reply to you in the comments on my blog, but I do wish I had an email address for you! I have some info that might be interesting? Don’t know…take care.
January 6th, 2008 at 3:48 pm
That was absolutely fantastic. So completely honest.
Have you read *The Solitude of Thomas Cave*?
January 6th, 2008 at 6:11 pm
God, this was amazing. My all-time favorite read of yours so far, I think.
Beautiful.
January 7th, 2008 at 3:45 am
Bon, I’m so forwarding this to Jody to read in camp. he misses his HOME so much and I think that you captured it so wonderfully in a manner that a southerner like me would never understand. I hope to bring him back there someday, but I’m afraid that I would hold him back with my yearnings for all the “amenities” that dear ol’ PEI holds
January 7th, 2008 at 2:11 pm
To stop and notice the world turning. How cool. Makes me feel so small and insignificant. Its like God has let me peek a one of His secrets. Its delicious.
I love lying in the middle of the biggest field, face to the clouds. It immediately shrinks me to the size of that bug flying by. I’m just a speck.
Your post is beautiful and reminds me of the beautiful things in my own life.
January 10th, 2008 at 10:58 pm
Breathtaking picture, that.
I noticed the light too.